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  Rough-grained sugar, either demerara or simple white granulated, is essential for lightness. It melts while the shortbread cooks, leaving tiny cavities that, when examined close up, look similar to honeycomb. This is the crumbliness in the biscuit, the melt-in-the-mouth feel and the fundamental difference between a closer-textured biscuit with “snap” and thicker, cakier types. It may sound ridiculous, but biting into a petticoat tail should sound like a boot treading through fresh fallen snow, and experimentation shows granulated delivers that crunch.