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  The better restaurants are to be found in the warren of winding backstreets. Gitonika, or Manolis and Christina’s (the owners’ names) as it is better-known, is a simple taverna with a roof-terrace which knocks out a mouth-watering moussaka and to-die-for dolmades (22980 536615; close to Agios Konstantinos church; mains from €5/贈4.30).